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Petit Mouton 2015
RP 91-93 HK$2,050 |
| The 2015 Le Petit Mouton is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, matured in 40% new oak and the remainder one-year-old. It has a very intense bouquet for this deuxième vin, a far cry from the rustic wines produced in the 1990s. It is almost opaque, a wall of blackberry, cassis and tobacco aromas, perhaps the most powerful that I have ever tasted under this label. Over ten minutes, I noticed it become more sensual and rounded. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, like the aromatics, incredibly powerful and assertive. Wonderful delineation here, very mineral-driven with a bravura of a finish. It begged the question...is this really a second wine? Maybe they should rename it "Le Grand Mouton"? It is amazing to think how humdrum vintages of this were in the 1990s. This is a completely different wine to those. |
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Chateau Beychevelle 2014
RP 91-93 HK$700 |
| The Château Beychevelle 2014 is a blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 51% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc. You might notice the high percentage of Merlot. This is because of the flowering, decisions made during blending and the low yield of the Cabernet Sauvignon. It was cropped at 38 hectoliters per hectare between 25 September and 14 October during what the estate recorded as the driest September since 1961. That Merlot governs the aromatics here, the fruit clearly towards the red side of the fruit spectrum: cranberry and wild strawberry, almost Right Bank in style. The palate is ripe and fleshy, nicely defined with tensile tannins. I appreciate the nascent harmony here, with fine precision and a long sustained finish with fine salinity. You could argue that pinning your hopes on Merlot when so many others proselytize Cabernet Sauvignon was a risk however, in this showing it was a risk that was worth taking. "Pomerol does Saint Julien" perhaps? It seems to work on what may be the most seductive Beychevelle for years. |
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Clerc Milon 2012
RP 92 HK$625 |
| This is another strong effort from the Mouton Rothschild stable and its excellent administrator Philippe Dhalluin. The 2012 Clerc Milon has an almost blackish-blue opaque color, soft tannins, ripe notes of blackcurrants, licorice and subtle background oak. There is an attractive floral, licorice quality to the fruit. The wine is medium to full-bodied and beautifully pure with ripe tannin. It is soft enough to be approachable in several years and should drink well for 20. |
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Clerc Milon 2014
RP 90-92 HK$625 |
| The Château Clerc-Milon 2014 contains less Merlot than usual as the old vines produced just 15 hectoliters per hectare. The blend consists of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmenère. Like the d’Armailhac ´14, there is a sense of opulence on the nose, ripe blackberry intermingling with black olives. The palate is rich and quite tangy on the entry. This is a “full-on” Clerc-Milon, quite extravagant in the context of the vintage, not a shy Pauillac, perhaps due to that expressive old vine Merlot? There is a pinch of soy on the finish that continues onto the aftertaste. Feisty Clerc-Milon for those who want a bit of va-va-va-voom in their Pauillac. |
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